THE COCOA SPRING
For many years my interest in cocoa has led me to a constant evolution.
The Piedmontese tradition of working with chocolate and the creativity that can be expressed by working with chocolate inspired me to realize this great dream: to make chocolate.
From my move to Vicoforte, to the establishment of a modern laboratory super-equipped to chocolate production, the step was short.
There are three types of chocolatiers: melters, mixers and roasters.
As for me, I went through the first two phases with fair satisfaction, but my goal was always to be able to choose directly and put my own stamp on the chocolate I was working on.
So the only solution was to switch to the third type.
And I went to the cocoa springs.
DOING THE GRINGO
To say it was easy would be a lie.
Expert bean chocolatier experience, you don’t learn it in books, knowing the markets is even more difficult and importing is really a feat of daring.
I have known personalities in cocoa production for a number of years, and for this first year of roasting I chose to go to the island of Sao Tomé, where there are rare varieties and great artisanal bean processing skills.
I thought I would make my lived experience of searching for the best varieties available to all readers.
THE SEARCH FOR THE BEST VARIETIES
L’
amelonado Saotomense
; after some investigations made on the spot, I determined that there is a very interesting variety of Forassero on the island.
The fruits are a little stockier and shorter than the other varieties, the coloration is yellow-orange, and the seeds slightly smaller.
Chemical research has yielded surprising results: considerable presence of alkaloids, good percentage of fat, and above all, an intense and particularly fruity flavor.
They range from pineapple sensations to yellow peach, with hints of cheese due to the lactic fermentation that gives the characteristic flavor.
The fact that the broad beans are smaller than the others facilitates their drying and heat transfer, resulting in more uniform roasting.